Thursday, September 3, 2015

Walking the "Lost Generation" Art Deco



Me with Martha’s daughter-in-law Rebecca
There's more than just writers on my "Lost Generation" Montparnasse literary walking tour, and one of my recent walkers shows us why.  She is Martha Bardach, a retired photo editor, whose eye for the significant architectural detail is as sharp as ever.  This we shall see in Le Select, La Coupole, the former Dingo, and the Closerie des Lilas, haunts of Hemingway, and many other writers in the Art Deco days of the 1920s. And, oh yes, there's a glimpse of me in action!


No less than four scenes are set in the cafe Le Select in Ernest Hemingway's first novel The Sun Also Rises, published in 1926, just a year after the cafe opened.



The massive cafe and restaurant La Coupole opened on December 27th, 1927, and has been popular with writers and everyone else ever since. Josephine Baker used to parade among the tables with her pet cheetah Chiquita in a diamond leash and collar.


A Pillar Fresco
Local Montparnasse artists volunteered to paint frescos on the pillars in exchange for meals.


In May 1925 F. Scott Fitzgerald first met Ernest Hemingway at this literary relic, the old wooden bar at the then-Dingo American Bar, now the Auberge de Venise.  Hem writes about their encounter (not very kindly) in A Moveable Feast.


Right: The Closerie des Lilas, Hemingway's writing headquarters when he lived down the street from 1924 to 1926.

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Edith Wharton on the Rue de Varenne

Edith Wharton
In 1906 Edith Wharton and her husband Teddy sublet George Vanderbilt’s spacious apartment at No. 58 Rue de Varenne, now an annex of the Prime Minister’s office. She was forty-four years old, a famous novelist thanks to her second novel, The House of Mirth, a critical and financial success the previous year, but she was suffocating intellectually in the high society circles of New York and Newport. Wharton was fluent in French thanks to a childhood spent in Europe, and she wanted to challenge her mind in the vibrant cultural climate of Paris, which she adored.  “Je l’ai dans mon sang,” she wrote in her diary. Henry James called her the “pendulum woman” because of her clockwork-like annual visits. Between 1885 and 1914, she made sixty to seventy Atlantic crossings. This time she meant to stay through the winter. The Whartons arrived with six servants, a cook, their automobile and chauffeur, and two dogs.


58 Rue de Varenne
She was a close friend of other Americans with equally strong ties to Europe, including Henry Adams, Walter Van Rensselaer Berry, Bernard Berenson, and her literary idol James.  And in  the spring of 1907 she met a dark, handsome, mustachioed American in Paris named Morton Fullerton, a Harvard graduate, correspondent for the Times of London, and friend of Henry James since 1890. Three years her junior at thirty-nine, he was cultivated, seductive, and “very intelligent, but slightly mysterious, I think,” she told a friend.  She saw in him the possibility of something she dreamed of, but had never experienced: a complete relationship with a man. They became regular theater and travel companions and, early in 1908, lovers. As her letters and poems to him make clear, she took enormous joy in their lovemaking and experienced at long last her erotic awakening. In the second year of the affair, however,


Fullerton alternated between brief periods of passion
Morton Fullerton
and long unexplained silences, very painful to her. Though she never learned his full range of his erotic involvements, they included numerous lovers of both sexes, a short-lived marriage to a French opera singer, and a current affair with his young cousin Katherine. He was also being blackmailed by a woman who had proof of his homosexual past. The affair ended in 1910, but
Wharton continued to see him as a friend and advised him about his writing. Most importantly for her readers, her fiction took on a new emotional depth thanks her ability to describe love in the full range of emotions it arouses -- jealousy, sadness, guilt, rejection, possessiveness, bliss -- in such novels as Ethan Frome, The Reef (with Fullerton the model for George Darrow), and her masterpiece The Age of Innocence.


53 Rue de Varenne
In 1910, having decided to live in Paris, she moved with her husband Teddy to a larger apartment in the house across the street at No. 53, where a plaque quotes her saying:
“My years of Paris life were spent entirely in Rue de Varenne – rich years, crowded and happy years.”  



But these years were also blighted by her relationship with Teddy, a mentally unstable man twelve years her elder with whom she had never had an emotionally, intellectually, or sexually fulfilling marriage, who secretly squandered her money, and was a philanderer to boot. His wayward manipulations eventually forced her to sell the splendid house she built in Lenox, Massachusetts, the Mount.  In 1913, after twenty-eight increasingly painful years of marriage, she finally divorced Teddy.



With the outbreak of World War I, she threw herself into war work, creating a network of orphanages, hostels, clinics, and crafts workshops to aid displaced people in Flanders and northeastern France. Her friends André Gide and Jean Cocteau worked for “Mrs. Wharton’s Charities,” as they were known. In 1916 she was made a chevalier of the Legion d’Honneur.


After the war Wharton moved to the Pavillon Colombe, an elegant 18th century house she bought in Saint Brice-sous-Fôret north of Paris, wintering at her Château Sainte-Claire overlooking the Mediterranean in Hyères. Her final years were rife with rewards, including the Pulitzer Prize for The Age of Innocence in 1921 and an honorary doctorate from Yale two years later, the first woman to be so honored by the university. As the grande dame of American letters, she received countless literary admirers, most embarrassingly, F. Scott Fitzgerald when he visited her in 1925. He was in such awe of her, both socially and artistically, that he kept fortifying himself with little nips on the drive to her house and ended up making a complete ass of himself. She, gracious lady, took it in stride.
Edith Wharton died in 1937 and is buried at the American Cemetery in Versailles.

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

DEATHLESS WRITERS IN THE PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY

Second in popularity in my series of Writers in Paris Walking Tours, the first being the ones dominated by Ernest Hemingway and his 1920s “Lost Generation” associates, is the moody, magnificently verdant Pere Lachaise Cemetery. This walk  features the final resting places -- fascinating all -- of Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Richard Wright, Marcel Proust, Guillaume Apollinaire, Balzac, Moliere, Jim Morrison, Colette, the medieval lovers Heloise and Abelard and others.

Where could you find such an illustrious bunch of writers as these?

Irresistibly drawn to this cemetery was explorer extraordinaire Dale Dunlop (www.themaritimeexplorer.ca), who had previously written that marvellous piece about my “Lost Generation” Montparnasse walk (scroll below for that piece), and who now wrote another of his remarkable text-and-photo spreads entitled “Walking Pere Lachaise with David Burke.”

Here’s the link: http://themaritimeexplorer.ca/2015/04/30/walking-pere-lachaise-david-burke/

Check it out.  
You will enjoy Dale’s sprightly take on it. I guarantee!


Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Welcome back to Writers in Paris Walking Tours for 2015.

I am pleased to tell you that I received a great honor this year in Lonely Planet's book BEST IN TRAVEL 2015.  It features Top 10  bests in many travel categories, one of them being "Top 10 Literary Walking Tours of the World."  And in that lot of 10 you will find -- you guessed it already --moi, David Burke.  Thank you, Lonely Planet!

And adding to that pleasure, here is a wonderful piece about my "Lost Generation" Montparnasse walk by Canada's extraordinary world explorer Dale Dunlop, who joined me on it with his wife Alison and sister Anne last week. I urge you to take a look at his take on it in superb pictures and astute text.  Here is the web link:
themaritimeexplorer.ca/2015/04/22/search-hemingway-david-burke/

NOTE:  make that:  www.themaritimeexplorer.ca/2015/04/22/search-hemingway-david-burke/

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Hello, Good Bye, and Hello again in 2015, which is when I get back to Paris after a long voyage.

My Writers in Paris Walking Tours went off beautifully in 2014, with "Lost Generation" Montparnasse leading the way in popularity -- Ernest Hemingway, Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and others of the 1920s expatriate crowd.  Very stimulating!   You can't miss.  But my "A Band of Outsiders": Place de la Contrescarpe/rue Mouffetard walk is right behind Montparnasse, because this colorful fringe of the Latin Quarter was where Hem started his Moveable Feast period, James Joyce finished Ulysses, and George Orwell started writing Down and Out in Paris and London, all in the 20s.  But towering French writers also figure in that walk -- Verlaine, Balzac, Victor Hugo in the 19th century, and with a history going all the way back to Francois Villon in the Middle Ages,

                   
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Every one of the eight walks I offer is extremely rich, each in its own special way. For descriptions of each, please take a look at the heading of THE WALKS

My 2015 season will start in the middle of April and will run to the end of November. I give a walk on every Sunday morning, and do walks on weekdays and Sundays according to the requests of prospective walkers.

Happy Holidays to you all!

Yours,

David Burke